On the western slopes of Haleakala, just below the cloud line, exists an idyllic setting stretching from Kula and Ulupalakua in the south and Makawao in the north.  This is Maui’s upcountry.

The charm of this rural region is... well... Country.  The hills dotted with cattle and horses are plentiful with flowers and vegetable farms.

Upcountry is peaceful, unpretentious and not too anxious to reveal her secrets.  It will however surprise you with a past that’s quite remarkable.

Boasting stories of sea captains, kings and cowboys.  It also tells fantastic tales of fortunes made and lost.  “My family started farming about four generations ago.  I don’t know how may years though, it's over or close to hundred years ago and right now I’m still in the cabbage business growing cabbage.  A fourth generation farmer up in the Kula area.”

From Hawaii's early years to the present day, the area known as Kula has been Maui’s agricultural district.  Traditionally growing taro and sweet potatoes under a system of land division call “ahupua’a”.  These zones represented the areas of forest, agriculture, shoreline and ocean and each provided the goods and resources of their district.

Kula, with its seemingly endless bounty of fruits and vegetables helped fuel both history and events for over two hundred years.  Supplying kings with provisions to trade for their war chests and sea captains with fortunes from land leases and plantations.  Kula, with its rich fertile soil supplied them all. 

With this enterprise, waves of immigration came to help work the land.  Land owners bought, sold and merged modern dynasties and as you can see, some of the names still remain as towns, stores and landmarks.  All of them reminders of upcountry’s past.

Today, Upcountry farmers are once again embracing changes in the agricultural landscapes as culinary kings demand organic produce, exotic fruits and trade island made products in new marketing ventures.  All of them making a little history of their own. 

Traveling south further down the road, is Ulupalakua.  Home of Tedeschi Winery and Vineyards.  Visitors can stop and sample local wines, enjoy the scenery and at the same time a small taste of Ulupalakua’s history.

Imagine what the estate must have looked like over one hundred years ago.  Back then, it was called Rose Ranch.  Peacocks roamed, Lokelani roses bloomed and King Kalakaua, a frequent guest, enjoyed his own cottage.  It was a brief, yet elegant time until ranching replaced royalty.

Ulupalakua ranch soon took its place in call to ranching history as the homes of several world renowned Hawaiian Paniolo’s.  Today, its one of Maui’s largest working cattle ranches.  Where you're more likely to see these modern Paniolo’s roping steer and driving cattle from their ATV’s.

Reminiscing the days gone by, Paniolo’s at Haleakala Ranch, still keep busy rounding up cattle and tending to the business of modern day ranching.  “Initially when the Vicaro’s came in they were brought in to educate the Hawaiians as to how to rope, ride and handle cattle.  They didn’t have any experience whatsoever prior to that.  They seemed to have been good students and it was something that fell into their culture and their personality and it continued on until today.

Despite the modern changes, Maui’s upcountry has kept its paniolo heritage alive.  Each year, roping and equestrian skills are tested in our states biggest rodeo in Makawao, Hawaii’s cowboy town.





Upcountry, its the kind of country that only Maui could offer, the next time you travel up these cloud lined slopes, let your senses come alive and imagine with a little curiosity, you too can discover part of Maui’s historical past.